Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
